Dry nitrous installation


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Page one deals with the basics in nitrous oxide.

Page two deals with all the different stuff and gadgets that goes into this.

Page three deals with common questions and calculations.

Page four deals with installation of a dry single fogger system.


 

All pictures are clickable for bigger image

  • Installation in a Miata

 

I bought my first kit (NOS generic dry manifold kit) used from Wiz Performance (don't EVER do business with them) and is was VERY easy to install. That the kit is used isn't really a problem since you can't wear out a nitrous kit (might have to change a seal or two, but that's it). They also included their "Miata installation kit", what a scam! Two jets needed to set the kit to ~50 HP and two pages of instructions that are misleading and way to complicated. The NOS kit is really good, but buy it from NOS and not from Wiz (they charge almost $100 more for the same thing)! If you have the right instructions (which are here!) you can do it in ~3 hours. You mount the bottle in the trunk, draw the nitrous line to the engine compartment, mount the solenoids on the inside fender, connect to the standard fuel pressure regulator, install the nitrous injector in front of the engine, mount the microswitch on the throttle body and connect a couple of electric cables. The only "permanent change" you have to do is to drill a small hole in the plastic tube between the throttle and the airflow meter. You can uninstall all the visible parts (for smogcheck?) in less than 30 minutes!

 


 

  • Bottle

From the top

From the side

The two pictures above shows my previous tank installation (I no longer use the nylon strap). The tank uses the standard plastic bottle brackets from NOS. The brackets are mounted on a wooden board covered with carpet that is cut to fit perfectly on the left side in the low part of the trunk. That was not enough since it would tip over in hard right hand turns, so I drilled a hole in the wood board and made a small slit in the trunk carpet because there is a drain hole with a rubber grommet just below in the trunk floor. Then I just stick a nylon strap (showing in the picture) through the board, through the carpet, through the drain hole and use a small wooden stick from underneath. Works like a charm :-)

The bottle might also fit mounted on the higher level. I remember I saw a picture of Bill Cardells trunk and he didn't have the bottle in the lower part, he had it next to the battery, which means it does fit height wise. You could also change the angle of bottle by lowering the front mount (it ultimate is a 15 degrees angle). Another possibility is to mount the bottle sideways (left-right instead of lengthwise), then you can (have to) rotate the bottle a little so the siphon tube inside the bottle is more backwards instead of in the lowest point. This will reduce the height since the bottle valve is the highest point.

 


 

  • Nitrous line from bottle

Line in the front of the trunk

Down behind the seat

Under the sill plate

Up under the glove box

I routed the feed line through the existing hole behind the spare tire into the passenger compartment, under the carpet to the passenger door. Remove the sill plate that holds the carpet at the door and you will find a perfect groove that will route it past the door. From there, lead it under the carpet to the firewall behind the glove compartment. Under the hood, remove the windshield washer reservoir and behind it, you will see a hole in the firewall (plugged with a rubber plug I think). Enlarge it until you can push the nitrous line through it. Put a rubber grommet on the line so it won't cut through. Route the line behind the fuse box and towards the shock tower.

 


 

  • Solenoids

I have the FM strut tower brace and mounted the solenoids on the bolt that hold the horizontal bar. If you don't have something like that, you'll have to be a little inventive :-)

 


 

  • Getting power (electrical that is)

If you stand in front of the car you'll see a fuse and relay box in the left side of the engine compartment (towards the firewall). Loosen it and turn it upside down. Underneath you will see a bolt holding some thick wires, those are the feed lines to the fuse box. Perfect place to get power :-)

 


 

  • Injector

Mount the nitrous injector halfway between the throttle body and the airflow meter. Aim it towards the throttle body. Do NOT mount it closer to the throttle! Make sure it clears the stick that holds the hood up when it's in the down position.

 


 

  • Fuel pressure switch

Mount the FPS on the brass T-connection (use loctite). Install the T between the rubber hose and the metal fuel FEED line with a short piece of hose. Remember to depressurize the fuel system first!

 


 

  • Arming switch

Mount the arming switch someplace convenient in the driver compartment. I mounted mine below the interior light in front of the drivers knee. Power is available under the steering wheel. Make sure you tap a powerline that is active ONLY when the ignition is on!

 

Last revised: Friday, February 02, 2007